Chisos Mountains Loop

Most people don’t know that there are 8,000-foot peaks in Texas, but in the exceptionally remote southwest corner of the Lone Star State, Big Bend National Park’s Chisos Mountains soar high over the Chihuahuan Desert. The South Rim of the mountain bowl features a few backcountry sites that allow backpackers to delve into the magical world of the high desert mountains, while escaping the brutal heat of the lower desert.

Beginning at the trailhead beside the Chisos Mountain Lodge, follow the well-developed Laguna Meadows Trail. The path switches back along the western flanks of Texas’ highest mountain, Emory Peak, before leveling out around 7,200 ft. Keep an eye out for Mountain Lions, Mexican Black Bear, Mexican Jays, Tarantulas, Rattlesnakes and Javelinas (wild pigs) in the moderate brush and forest along the trail.

To get the best views, head for the any of the South Rim backcountry sites (SW1-SW4, SE1-SE4). Set up camp and store your food in the bear boxes before relaxing for the afternoon along the cliffs 2,000 feet above the desert below. Enjoy vistas including the Santa Elena Canyon, where the Rio Grande cuts a narrow slot in the sheer cliffs that divide the US and Mexico’s Parque Nacional Cañon Santa Elena, Donkey Ears, and the sunset over the desert.

On Day two, continue around the South Rim at sunrise to enjoy dramatic cliff views from the South Rim and Northeast Rim Trails before they merge with Boot Canyon Trail and enter a narrow, forested canyon along its namesake creek. Boot Pinnacle, an outcropping of rock that looks like an upside-down cowboy boot, perches above the canyon. If you’re feeling energetic, take the 1-mile side trail up to the summit of Emory Peak, or else finish the loop back at the Lodge.

On your way out of the park, stop in the rehabilitated ghost town Terlingua and check to see if the legendary La Kiva is open. If so grab some BBQ and a beer to celebrate West Texas style, or go hard with their signature drink, the Mind Eraser.

Suggested listening while driving through and around the park: This Will Destroy You's self-titled album.

Things to Keep in Mind:

• Wildlife in the Chisos Basin is abundant, but can be dangerous. Be sure to store food properly to keep bears away and make sure smaller children stay close to you to prevent cougar attacks—a few have occurred in the basin in recent years. Watch the trail carefully for rattlesnakes and other venomous plants and animals
• Desert heat even at high altitude can reach dangerous levels. Bring extra water, a hat and sunscreen to avoid heat-related issues. Next to no water is available along the trail
• Backcountry permits are required to camp along the South Rim. They can be obtained at Rio Grande Village or Panther Junction Visitors Centers
• A few backcountry privies are scattered throughout the campsites on the Rim
• During the spring, sections of the Southeast and Northeast Rim Trail can be closed for Peregrine Falcon nesting.